Our first blog takes us to Firoz Shah Kotla. There’s no particular logic to this, it’s part of Delhi’s fifth city, but I’ve found a fascinating book that covers an extraordinary aspect of this evocative place. You’ll have to read the next blog to find out what! Today I’ll just set the scene.
When Firoz Shah Tughlaq came to the throne in the 14th century, he, like many rulers before and after him, decided to build his own city, Firozabad, the fifth city of Delhi. Indeed, Firozabad is the largest of Delhi’s seven cities, a fact we can link to Firoz Shah’s chief passions – building, hunting and irrigation. It’s believed that his city (established on the banks of the Yamuna in 1354) stretched from Hauz Khas in the south (where Firoz Shah is buried in the madrassa) to a hunting lodge and an Ashokan pillar on the northern ridge.
Today only the citadel remains – with palace ruins, a mosque, a pigeon tower and a stepwell (baoli). Sadly, much of the most valuable material was carted away to build the city of Shahjahanabad in the 17th century.
One of the most prominent features of Firoz Shah Kotla is the tall pillar atop the citadel. This was originally set up in Ambala district by Emperor Ashoka of the Mauryan dynasty (273-232). Firoz Shah Tughlaq found it on one of his expeditions and decided it would be a fine addition to his city. The 27-tonne pillar was lowered gently onto a bed of silk cotton fibres, wrapped in reeds and rawhide and transported to Delhi by ship – a distance of some 180 miles. When you walk there with me, I’ll show you the pillar inscribed with seven of Ashoka’s edicts in Pali script.
I will also show you the mosque, a fine domed building, which sits on a pyramidal block of cells. The story goes that the invader Timur was so impressed by this mosque that he had a similar one constructed in Samarkand.
In the daytime, the monument is a serene place with grass and flowers setting off the ancient stones. In late April you’ll find the Barna tree, beautiful in bloom and bare for a long period in the dry season..
But, as the shadows draw in, it’s a different story, with the dark alcoves and underground chambers growing heavy with atmosphere. It’s the sort of place where anything could happen, and every Thursday night, indeed, something very strange occurs.
See my visual aid on the left. This shows all the five cities including Firoz Shah Kotla. These days, you can take the violet line to ITO and get a rickshaw to Firoz Shah Kotla.
Beware – most drivers think of the nearby cricket stadium formerly known as Firoz Shah Kotla (now renamed Arun Jaitley Stadium). Make it clear you want to go to the monument. Most days you’ll need to purchase an ASI ticket before you enter.
On our walk, we also make you familiar with environment around – the Delhi Parsi Dharamsala, Old City walls with the Mughal Gates, Daryaganj, once the site of a famous book bazaar, and we even climb a Mortello tower.
Do post your comments on walks@delhimetrowalks.com
If you have walked with me in the past or visited on your own tell us what you found most fascinating.
Comments & Replies
Comment 1: Amita in Kuala Lumpur – Read your blog, it is captivating, you must mention the tiny cells below in which people drop letters to djinns on Thurs eve. I think inscriptions on the Ashokan pillar are in Brahmi script.
DMW: Thank you for your very kind comment – we cover the djinns and cells next week! You are right about the Ashokhan pillar – I mention in the blog that the inscriptions are in Pali script which is based on ancient Brahmi.
Comment 2: Rebecca in Wales – I’ve enjoyed the virtual walk with you this morning! What a great idea. I would like to continue to read your blog – lots of ideas for my next visit to Delhi when all this is over. I just wish you had been leading these walks in the mid -80s when I lived in Delhi for 3 years – I missed out! I have a request – could the 7 cities diagram be reproduced on a white background – it’s hard to read. And if the photos could be lightened (photoshop?) before posting, I could get more from them. Thanks again – and I look forward to more virtual explorations with you!
DMW: Many thanks for your encouraging comments. You took the words right out of my mouth. When I posted the 7 cities map that is exactly what I said to myself. Hope to improve in subsequent blogs. Changes already done please see the blog archives. Thanks to Trudy for the map.
Comment 3: Beverly in Nigeria/ Delhi – Great initiative and I loved the account of FSK. Never realise that city was so big! I think I missed that week when I did the 7 Cities. l’ll be happy to share it with Delhi Network – but see what can be done about the comments first. Happy blogging!
DMW: Thanks Bev. As always love your enthusiasm on the walks and now for the Blog. Please share with Delhi Network/ friends & colleagues as the interactive mode may take a while on account of the corona virus.
Comment 4: Sharon in Bangkok – Hope you are well Surekha! I miss your walks!
DMW: Thank you Sharon – stay well!
Comment 5: Margot in Turkey/Germany – I’m happy to see you’re fine. I am in Turkey (Alanya) now, I am happy and I’m okay. Joining the prayer. Best wishes to you and your adventurers! Take care!
DMW: Thanks Margot – I remember our trips to Srinagar, Varanasi etc. And it was great to meet up in Berlin last year. Be happy & safe in Turkey – till my next visit
Comment 6: Barbara in London/France – Beautifully done !
DMW: Thanks so much – we’re planning to make it better and better!