In Blog 1 we introduced you to Firoz Shah along with directions to get there For this you may refer to the blog archives). This blog goes to Firoz Shah Kotla, to see the extraordinary events that unfold there one evening a week and try to discover what’s behind them.
On a fine Thursday evening, about 5 pm, take an auto to the main gate of Firoz Shah Kotla. Join the crowds of people flooding through the gates, women in glittering salwar kameez and men with head coverings, laden with candles, incense, rose petals, marigolds, sugar, flour, seeds, documents, and more.
What’s going on? Is this some age-old ritual preserved into the 21st century? What’s everyone doing? The answer is they are coming to petition the jinns said to inhabit the dark alcoves and niches of Firoz Shah Kotla, and this ritual is no more than 43 years old, having started around 1977 in the years after The Emergency of 1975-77.
Animals are revered
Walk across the first courtyard and you’ll find curious little piles of white powder and people busy depositing them. These are offerings of flour and sugar to the myriad black ants that inhabit the ruins – for animals are revered in this place, the belief being that the shape-shifting jinns can sometimes take animal form. By the same token, you’ll see groups of crows feasting on the maize brought by the devotees and petitioners, and flocks of kites waiting for morsels to be thrown their way.
Jinns as saints
When you walk with Surekha, she will show you the shrine of Nanhe Mihan, a formless Muslim saint who is also a jinn. This is located a short distance from the entrance, where you find a small, smoke-blackened alcove off what would have been a large entrance gate to the citadel. Candles and coins are stuck to the walls, as well as letters, poems, and garlands of flowers.
There are said to be many jinn-saints at Firoz Shah Kotla but Nanhe Mihan is one of the best known. Another popular one is Lat Wale Baba – the saint of the pillar. In the chambers below the Ashokan pillar and around it, people come to deposit letters of supplication, sweets, food, candles and other gifts for the Baba.
Under the mosque, are more dark chambers and alcoves lit only by the candles left by devotees. Stories are told of tall figures in white Muslim dress that have been seen here fleetingly before vanishing mysteriously. As the sun goes down and the shadows close in, you can well believe it.
What are jinns exactly?
In Islamic lore, jinns are a separate type of being, different from and older than humans. Allah created humans from clay and jinns from smokeless fire and made them invisible to men. Formed from a completely different substance to humans, they are said to be able to shape-shift and travel huge distances very quickly. Like humans, but unlike angels, they have free will and can choose between good and evil. Like humans, they are mortal but can live for thousands of years. Some of the jinns said to be alive today were among the companions of the Prophet.
But the jinn saints of Firoz Shah Kotla are something very unusual. In general, jinn worship is not linked to Muslim saints. Why does it happen in the ruins of the old citadel and why is the phenomenon so recent?
For the answers to these and other questions you’ll need to wait until our next blog.
Do post your comments on walks@delhimetrowalks.com
If you have walked with me in the past or visited on your own tell us what you found most fascinating.
Inputs by Surekha Narain, design & concept by Catriona Child
Comments & Replies
Comment 1: Ajit Mahal, US ‒ I learned about the background of “Jinns” from your Blog. Growing up in India, kids were afraid of “Jinn-Bhoot” used as a term to discipline them from some wrong doing. In J&K where I grew up, there was another legend of “Chall” an invisible entity that used to change itself into any being or a animal. Jim Corbett in his Jungle Lore, writes about the concept of “Churdale”. These are interesting legends and myths. Arjit Mahal, New Jersey, USA
DMW: Thanks so much for your very interesting comments and comparisons. Hope you’ll enjoy our next but one blog, where we will weave in more about jinn-like beings across the world.
Comment 2: Gaby in Switzerland/ Delhi ‒”Surekha, this is a wonderful initiative of walking your walks from home by following your very interesting stories about historic Delhi. Personally, I loved your Djinn’s walk many years ago when you took me along with our friends Barbara and Bruce to the hidden caverns of the Feroze Shah Kotla ruins. It was magic to enter this mysterious world of djinns one could not imagine would exist hidden from our modern world… Would love to go there with you again when our lockdown existence is over… meanwhile thanks for keeping us entertained with your interesting blogs…”
I very much like the two barbets sitting next to each other. That’s a lovely pair and rare to be seen and their call is quite unique! At the moment, we are observing a lot of birds as well around our house… it’s mating time and a lot of singing and chirping is going on… Spring is in the air and at least our feathered friends are keeping good spirits!
DMW: Thanks so much Gaby, likewise love to show you more hidden treasures in our beloved Delhi. I know you will appreciate My Garden birds as we share a mutual passion and appreciation for our chirpy friends.
Comment 3: Amita in Kuala Lumpur ‒ I have walked with Surekha on several occasions and she is a delight to be with ! Full of joi de vivre she makes the place come alive.
Thank you Surekha, for being you !
DMW: Thank you Amita, always a pleasure to share my passion with like-minded friends!
Comment 4: Mary in Ireland/ Gurgaon ‒ I love the photos Surekha. Stunning little birds
DMW: Thank you Mary, I hope you are well in Bangalore and able to see our feathered friends there too.